There really aren't any commercially available signals that would be suitable to a metro layout. This is why I have to make my own!
I'm using N-scale signals from Roco, the 20010 color-light signals to be specific, as a base for my modifications. N-scale signals work really well since they are just the size of H0-scale signals for a metro layout, since these typically use much shorter and smaller signals than main railways. The signal is just high enough to be on level with the train's roof, just as in the real system. Also, what's good about these Roco-signals is that the lights are on top of each other, not side-by-side as in most modern signals that represent their German full-scale counterparts.
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| The original Roco 20010 signal before any modifications |
Pictures and information on the Helsinki Metro signalling system
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Original Roco 20010 N-scale signals
with the red-white marking tapes removed |
What I do first is remove the red-white warning tape from the signal's mast. It's just a paper strip that's been glued on so it's easy to remove with a sharp knife.
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| Drilling holes in the acrylic plates on top of a balsa 'jig' |
Next, I cut an appropriately sized piece from an acrylic sheet to change the shape of the signal to resemble the prototype a bit more. Holes for the two color lights will then be drilled to these plates for the sunscreens, and of course the lights themselves of the original signals to protude through.
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| Test-fitting the acrylic plates |
All of the plates are then test fitted and the holes adjusted if necessary for a tight fit.
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| Paint it black |
Next, I paint the acrylic plates black with some acrylic paint, making sure no white parts are visible at all after I'm done.
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| Plates applied to the signals |
After the paint has dried out, I glue the plates to the signals using as little glue as possible and carefully avoiding the actual lamps so that the glue doesn't get there at all. At this stage I can still make some adjustments and make sure that the plate is straight and level by pressing it against the signal with pliers.
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Markings being glued, which after only final trimming,
cutting and tidying up with a permanent marker remains |
I have a paper sheet full of markings for the signals, from where I select the appropriate ones and cut them with a very sharp knife. These markings are then glued to the plates with paper glue. This is to make changing the markings easier if required in the future.
After the glue is dry, I cut off the possible excess paper, smooth out the edges and color over the white edges of the paper with a permanent marker. After this, I'm finished!
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| Finished signals |
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| A signal "DF" on the layout |
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